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Brogues are easily recognisable by the pattern that runs along edges of the leather, known as broguing. It’s the rows of holes and perforations which follow the shape of the shoe that make the brogue so eye catching. There’s no room for error when the iconic pattern’s punched into each leather piece.
With the ability to boost your shoe rack with some classic charm, brogue shoes are most definitely a timeless item of men’s fashion. Luckily for you, this guide will help you find a cracking pair of brogues to help you put your best foot forward, whether you’re out and about, or just at work.
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What are Brogues?
It’s all in the cut when it comes to shoes, being clued up really pays off. Having a good knowledge of styles will help a guy stay suave and save time. Once you to get to grips with each cut it’s so simple to pick out your perfect pair time and time again.
Broguing is something that can be used to create a texture and pattern to most formal shoes. So you’ll probably be able to stick to your favourite shoe style, whilst also adding a layer of broguing to give your shoes that extra stylish detail. Although it’s mainly found on an Oxford/Derby shoe, broguing can also feature on loafers and Chelsea boots.
Pick a Pattern
All of these dots can leave your head spinning, so we’ve broken down the designs for you. You never know when it’ll come in handy to know a full brogue from a wingtip!
- Quarter Brogue – They are the simplest of the lot and the best choice for occasion wear.
- Semi-Brogue – Very versatile as they are a halfway point in how brogue you want to go. These work well with a full suit or trousers.
- Full Brogue (Wingtips) – Full brogues have the most detail of the lot and are also referred to as wingtips due to the W shape at the front of the shoe. Great for adding some classic cool to your denim pieces.
- Longwing Brogue – When it comes to brogues, the general rule is, the more pattern it has, the less formal they are. Therefore, longwing brogues are probably best with vintage style looks.
How to Wear Brogues?
Due to their traditional roots, it’s best to keep your outfit on the smarter side, no trackies with these chaps. Chinosand denim are still a great choice with a brogue style shoe. Tie things together neatly with a matching belt. It’s accessories 101 for leather shoes and belts to match. Keep the colours matching and pair brown with brown, and black with black. For those of you feeling the heat, how about trying a nice pair of tailored shorts with brogues, just wear with a short sock.
How to Wear Wingtips
Brogues in the Spotlight
If you needed anymore more evidence that brogues were a classic piece of men’s fashion, then check out the celebrity style icons that wear them. Have a look at how they’ve given the iconic piece an update with some personal quirks.
Kit Harrington
The Lord Commander has earned respect on the red carpet as much as he has on the wall. Showing he’s not a man to be trifled with, whether it’s in the tailors, or on the battlefield.
Paolo Nutini
Paolo’s lifestyle may be hasty, but he’s still found time to keep his clobber on point. For years Nutini’s been putting together some great laid back looks, on tour or at the awards, he has it down to a tee.
Graham Coxon
Coxon has been seeing the style standard for some time now with his new Britania cool. Taking heritage pieces and giving them a geek chic twist. He’s really got the right mix of country house and modern items.
A$ap Rocky
Rocky’s been pushing style boundaries ever since he started in the rap game. This fashion icon may be young, but he’s a master when it comes to mixing streetwear with classic designer pieces.
Street Style Brogues
For most of us, it’s not often that we’ll be walking down the red carpet, or be on the cover of Rolling Stone. So here’s a bunch of normal guys who rock brogues in an everyday way.
Look One:
The most laid-back look of the lot, it pays to play around with textures and colour. Choosing suede brogues is a softer way of wearing a dress shoe and the pale grey updates the look even more. Paired with a quilted Barbour style jacket, checked shirt and jeans this bloke knows how a quick change in shoe smartens up any outfit.
Look Two:
Camel coats are bang on trend, a wicked way of lightening up your look. These brogues compliment the combination of rolled up jeans, turtleneck and cardigan. This is a timeless outfit that’ll work for most occasions, a great one to try out brogues with too.
Look Three:
For a preppier take on the cuffed jeans and cardigan look, wear a shirt and tie combination. Matching the chunky knit to the socks and a cap makes it more street.
Look Four:
You can’t go wrong with a deep blue suit and brown leather brogues, the failsafe combination for smart occasions. Updating this classic look with this chestnut leather folio is a nice touch too.
Look Five:
Thick tweed blazers are an awesome investment piece to make most outfits a little smarter. When you don’t want to look too formal, ditch the matching trousers for a black pair and roll neck. Black dress shoes aren’t just for suits, choosing wool items can relax any look. By picking a tweed in dark grey or brown will help you get the most for your money as it will go with plenty of your wardrobe.
Look Six:
The white T-shirt is an underrated tool in your wardrobe for wearing smart shoes. This guy pulls off the trousers and brogues look by simply picking a plain white t-shirt underneath an open cardigan and beanie. By losing the socks and swapping the shirt for T-shirt he looks effortlessly smart.
Look Seven:
A very vintage look that oozes cool, this is a head to toe perfected outfit. Donning a get up like this really will turn some heads but it still looks great decades on for a reason. Finishing the look with the slick back hair and braces shows a strong retro style toughened up by some badass tattoos!
Look Eight:
The most modern man of the lot. This fella really has it down to a tee when mixing sports style streetwear and classic pieces. The oversized sheepskin hoodie under the leather jacket and soft trousers prove that all black doesn’t have to be boring. Picking grey leather brogues brings the focus back to the feet so it’s not overpowered by the strong shapes of the outfit.
Wingtips with Jeans
When wearing men’s fashion shoes with jeans, it’s best approached with a style influenced by the rough and ready mix of country clobber and thick selvedge denim.
A full brogue wingtip style is hard to wear with modern tailoring or super casual clothes. So embrace some traditional gentlemen items like leather elbow patches or flat cap when donning a wingtip with jeans.
Wingtips: Striking a Chord
Don’t think brogues are only for blokes in the boardroom. If you spend most of your time making music or going togigs and festivals, brogues are totally a look that’s ready to rock.
So many musicians and bands have made brogues part of their signature style from James Bay’s suited look to Father John Misty’s jeans and long sleeve look.
Wingtips With a Suit
Brogues with a suit will forever be a simple but charming combination. Black is always gonna be the most formal option but you can easily put a spin on it by choosing an unusual shirt style and an interesting bag like this one byRains.
Wingtips With Shorts
Wingtips with shorts aren’t as hard to pull off as you think. Just wear a sports sock and some tailored shorts as it won’t really work with denim or slouchy styles. Picking navy with pastel shades keeps it summery which is what you want from this look, blacks and dark will be too harsh for something like this.
Wingtip Shoes Black and White
Going monochrome can be a tricky one, it’s not usually the case that choosing a shade makes something harder to pull off. But the black and white wingtip takes some skill if you want to avoid looking like an extra in Bugsy Malone. Music legends like Jack White or Justin Timberlake guide the way with black and white wingtips by wearing them with pinstripe suits.
What to Wear with Brown Wingtip Shoes
Brown wingtips will give you the most wiggle room when figuring out what to wear with a wingtip. Wearing a brown or tan coloured brogues is always going to be a safe bet. Brown brogues are good because you can combine them with more or less any outfit, as well as wear them all year round.
Tan Dress Shoes
Tan takes a little more skill to wear as it suits lighter shades better. However, it’s a great brogue style to wear to a summer party. It will give you a slick look, without it being too formal.
Know Your Brogue Brands:
There are some brands that have been making brogues for men for generations, so your feet are in safe hands when investing in a pair by any of these classic cobblers.
Church’s
Church’s is the brand for fellas that want to dress like Morrissey, or pretty much any band that was on the front of NME in the last decade. Saying this, they’re still great quality shoes that will last you well.
Tricker’s
Trickers are a very smart shoe indeed, so if you prefer to be on the smarter side of life, mostly choosing trousers over jeans, these are the brand for you. Hedge your bets with a pair of these black bad boys, if all else fails, they’ll always be alright with a pair of dark trousers.
Grenson
If you fantasise about being in Mumford and Sons, wear tweed and possibly drive a Land Rover, then Grenson’s the brogue for you. They Work really well with denim that’s as thick as a craft ale bottle.
Dr. Marten’s
This is the rebel’s favourite. If you’re all about pushing fashion boundaries then stick with the master. For over fifty years they’ve been making the bouncing soul classics for everyone to enjoy. From rockabilly to punk and everything in-between, Dr. Marten’s have something for everyone, just tougher and punkier than everyone else.
Being Good to Your Brogues
It’s important to keep maintaining your shoes so they look tip top for as long as possible. Here is some great advice and a little video to help you for care for whatever pair you invest in.
History of the Brogue
Like most designs that have stood the test of time, the style was originally created for a particular function.
The hole styles started as a way for those living in Scotland and Ireland to drain their shoes. Trudging through a bog can mean shoes would soak up water. The holes were added to the design to let the waste escape when wading through swampy areas.
Due to their working class roots, they haven’t always been seen as a smart shoe, but that’s no longer the case.
Particularly the Ghillie brogue which is traditionally worn as part of a traditional Scottish kilt for weddings and other big events.
Good Dress Shoes (Alternatives)
If brogues aren’t your thing then don’t worry! There are many styles of dress shoe to fit any occasion.
The Oxford: The failsafe for any black tie (pick leather) and white tie (choose patent leather) events, simple classic and very smart.
The Loafer: A relaxed shoe for warmer weather. This shoe can look great with chinos, especially if you cuff them to show off a bit of ankle. Match with some simple but bright socks or without any at all!
The Derby: Also known as Blucher, this shoe’s a bit more flexible in what you can wear it with. The open lacing on top of the vamp relaxes the style. Compared to the Oxford which has the holes for the laces stitched under the vamp.
The Chelsea Boot: A must-have piece of classic British style loved by everyone from bad boys in bands to Bond. Pop them on with a suit or some simple jeans and either outfit will stand out from the crowd.
The Monk Strap: An interesting change from a laced up dress shoe as it still has the formality of polished leather. Picking a buckle over a bow can smarten your denim or toughen up a trouser piece.
The Desert Boot: A soft and simple boot that’s more laid back than the Chelsea, softens up a leather jacket look or adds class to a parka.
The Boat: Also known as deck shoes these are a nice alternative to loafers for casual and summer wear, wear with stripes for a full on sailor look.
Your Quick Guide on How to Wear Men’s Brogues
- Brogues are a great way to spruce up your dress shoes by adding a bit of British culture.
- Black and dark brown for times when you need to look sharp, best on a quarter or semi brogue.
- Smarten up jeans and chinos with brown or tan full brogues.
- Always match the colour of your belt with leather styles.
- From a simple semi brogue to an extended wingtip it’s up to you how eye catching you’re ready to be!
On That Note
From reading this you now have all you need to know about brogues! Just think about what you feel comfortable in and what you already love to wear. Whether you want to add the classic heritage of the full brogue to your denim and knits or to mix up your suit with the quarter brogue style. Some good brogue shoes add character to anyone’s shoe rack, you’ll be laced up in no time!
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